Pizza. That meal transports me to the U.S. more quickly and cheaply than a jet plane ever could.
In fact, Pizza Hut served as my roundtrip ticket to the U.S. before, when I was in Cairo, but only after several unhappy dining experiences.
The most vivid of these occurred on our very first day in Um Ad-Dunya (Egypt’s nickname; literally, the Mother of the World). Baba and I had entertained this notion that, in this city of twenty-million, we could walk into any restaurant and fare well. Not so.
We happened upon a restaurant that looked fairly respectable, but we soon discovered that the storefront was – pardon the pun – only a façade. As soon as we walked in, we found a man at our left with rolled-up sleeves, reading a newspaper at a small foldable table, a glass of tea in front of him. He distractedly pointed us to a flight of stairs. Down we went, into a dimly-lit room the size of a college dorm, furnished with a handful well-worn tables. The curcumin- and paprika-colored walls, the steamy humidity, and the lack of windows all combined to make us feel as if we were in a pot, stewing.
Not surprisingly, we were the only customers.
I don’t remember what we ordered but, whatever it was, it consisted of a little pile of orange rice topped with bite-sized hearts, kidneys and other miscellaneous organs. Had I been forewarned about this lesson in cardiovascular anatomy, I might have found my plate less revolting.
Lucky for me, however, Baba’s always been quite in touch with his carnivorous side, so all my meats were enthusiastically transferred from my plate to his. I spent the rest of my time trying to force half-cooked rice through the closed doors of an offended appetite.
Most of my dining experiences in Cairo were a little upsetting, if not to the sensibility, then certainly to the stomach. Like most travelers unaccustomed to the food, water and air of Cairo, I promptly experienced traveling sickness — an elegant euphemism for diarrhea.
On one of the day I stayed in, apologizing to my stomach and reading Mama’s college copy of Wuthering Heights, Baba went down to grab some groceries and to simply be in Cairo. (I wasn’t in Cairo, really. My mind was wandering around the British moors just outside the coldly enchanting Heathcliff residence.)
“I’m walking up our street.” Baba told me over the phone. “I think I’m gonna get myself a shawerma sandwich. You don’t want that, do you? Yeah, I figured. Well, what do you want me to get you? You know what – I saw a Pizza Hut some blocks down. You want pizza?”
Baba probably risked his life to get me that pizza, and I certainly appreciated it.
That familiar red, white and black box magically took me away from this city dressed in plastic bags, powdered with the black soot of trains and perfumed with the intermingling scents of sultry smog and sweat.
Only one thing about this pizza distinguished it from the pizzas at home: it featured a pepperoni I could intentionally eat without sinning. (Oh, a second distinguishing feature: Arabic labeling. But, that’s a moot point, because my language-blind palate can’t tell the difference between ‘Beetza’ and ‘Pizza’.)
Now, my aunt is a good listener and, somewhere along the line, she figured that pizza is among my comfort foods. So last Thursday at 3 pm, after a long and tiresome workweek, she gave me a ring.
I was still at UJ, my last class had just ended, and I checked my silenced phone. It reported six missed calls in the last ten minutes. To me, that didn’t spell ‘let’s have pizza tonight.’ It spelled ‘emergency’. (As it turns out, her phone has an automatic redial function.)
In any case, I heaved a sigh of relief and, during my walk home, conjured up an image of my aunt and me in warm pajamas, I watching a movie on her family-room rug with my chin in my hands and she on a chair wrapped in a blanket, both waiting for the doorbell to ring.
But we didn’t wait for a doorbell to ring. Instead, we made the pajamas and movie wait, and drove down to a Pizza Hut. Unlike the predominantly delivery- or carryout-oriented Pizza Huts I’ve known, this was a full-fledged restaurant with a huge seating area and many a family to fill it.
Guess what toppings we had? None, because we didn’t have pizza! We had fettucine alfredo and ice cream sundaes. How that came to pass is beyond me.
We learned (the hard way) that Pizza Hut is not named Fettucine Alfredo Hut or Sundae Hut for a reason. Even so, I had a pretty excellent time. And why wouldn’t I? I was sitting across from one of the most adorable women I know and my favorite aunt.
After we turned a burdensome week’s worth of stories into a punching bag, boxing it and conquering it with laughter by turns, we both fell into a contemplative silence.
I looked around. Sitting at the table before us were an attentive husband, a wife with a ponytail and four children: one a darling, arm-waving little boy on a child seat, another a little girl sitting on the lap of her Southeast Asian housekeeper.
Behind us sat four hijabi girls whose features bespoke African lineage. They were giddily celebrating a birthday. Their party came complete with the flickering flashes of active cameras and a laptop DJing their favorite songs. (Batteries not included.)
This was Eid, I suddenly realized. I must have thought aloud, because my aunt quizzically asked, “Eid? How so?”
Well, many Muslim Americans ditch school and work to eat out after Eid prayers, I explained. That’s why, if I’m at a restaurant and the majority of the clientele are families, Muslim, and people of (my) color, then, well, it’s unequivocally Eid Day. (That or I’m at Mas’ Islamic Chinese Restaurant.)
Even though Eid Al-Adha is only days away, I’m not expecting it to be remarkable.
It will be unremarkable, I think, because I’m half a world away from most of the people who reciprocate my smiles.
It will also be unremarkable because, really, Eid is for children. (Yes, I’m being jaded.) When you’re a kid, you get the eidiya and your net worth increases, albeit in $2 increments. Meanwhile, when you’re an adult, you sort of graduate to giver-status, which, I suppose, could be satisfying if you happen to be an altruistic do-gooder.
In college, I learned that Eid is not a big deal. This because my ochem professor made clear to me once that Eid will come every year, but this ochem exam only happens once. (Gee, a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!)
But there’s one more reason why this Eid will be unremarkable: In Amman, I can experience Eid – as I know it – anytime. It’s only as far away as the nearest family-friendly restaurant. That’s why, for me, there’s a holiday at every street corner.
If that doesn’t make me smile and appreciate where I am, then I really ought to watch It’s a Wonderful Life. If that film doesn’t inspire in me an ebullient holiday spirit then, by golly, I don’t know what will.