I’ve heard about these Things, and I’ve heard about snotty little Westerners like me, too. But this is the first time the Thing and the Westerner actually come into contact.
As I wait in line, I have a chance to take in the view. And what a glorious view it is.
How strange, I think to myself, that the Muslims here had the same wishful thinking as those at my mosque! White tiles will stay white, they presumed. No. No,they don’t. Every smidge and smear of mud (and this is my wishful thinking coming into play) shows on the tiles. Throw in a few strokes of the shoe-turned-brush and you have a brown-and-white Picasso.
Next, I notice that the doors on the stalls touch the ground. Huh, I think, our stalls in the U.S. are abbreviated, but this here — this is the complete and unabridged version. Not bad. It certainly makes it harder for pesky little boys to go nosing around. Not that there are any pesky little boys within a 20-mile radius.
And then it is my turn. The open stall beckons. But where there should be something porcelain, there is a gaping hole. Oh no. A little faucet snakes its way into the stall and a little plastic pot presents itself as an excuse for hygiene.
Look, I understand these holes. I theoretically accept them, I do. I believe they are cost-effective, water-efficient and sunnah-compliant. I even think they promote fitness. After all, squatting, according to my basketball-playing brother, gives you better “hops,” which means you have a better chance at dunking.
Still, I’m not sure how to work it. Does it flush? And, if not, then what–?
I turn to the person next in line, and embarrassed incomprehensible fragments fall out of my mouth. What I’m trying to ask, of course, is: “How does it work?” I say anything but. The girl tilts her head quizzically like a parakeet. “I don’t understand.” No no, I think, I don’t understand. It looks like there’s nothing to it, but what if I do it wrong? Should I ask now, or do the trial-and-error. No, I can’t do that. If I’m embarrassed now, I’ll be doubly embarrassed then.
So I try to explain again. This time, she figures I’m perplexed and so her answer is, without words, to use the little water pot to wash the area surrounding the hole. That’s what you do after you do what you need to do, she implies. I cock my head back understandingly as if she’s just shared with me a major revelation. “Thanks.”
I go in. I’m not ready for this step, I decide. I think to flush, for form’s sake but, seeing as that’s impossible, I simply leave the stall. There’s no soap and no toilet paper, I observe. Suddenly, all the hands I’d shaken today flash before my eyes and I’m filled with an inexplicable dread.
Okay, I think to myself, as I make my way back out into a dangerous soapless germ-ridden world. I’ve had enough bathroom action for one day. Yes, this big baby isn’t quite ready to be potty trained.